Sewing Buttons

Sewing Sew-Thru Buttons

Use a double strand of thread. Knot the end. Take a small stitch on the right side. Take a second stitch in same place.
Bring needle and thread through one hole in button. Center button over stitch. Insert needle into another hole in the button and into the fabric. Pull through.
Slip a toothpick, needle, or pin between thread and button to form shank. Take 3 or 4 stitches through each pair of holes.
Bring needle and thread to right side under button. Remove toothpick, needle, or pin.
Wind thread 2 or 3 times around button stitches to form shank.
Secure thread in fabric under button by making a knot or several small stitches.

Sewing Shank Buttons

Use a double strand of thread. Knot the end. Take a small stitch on the right side. Take a second stitch in same place.
Bring needle and thread through hole in shank.
Center button over stitch. Insert needle into fabric and pull through. (If length of shank is not sufficient, place a toothpick, needle, or pin under shank and continue as for sew-thru button.)
Bring needle and thread to right side. Take 3 or 4 stitches through shank.
Secure thread in fabric under button by making a knot or several small stitches.

Marking & Placement of Buttons

First, stitch and cut open button holes. Pin the garment closed, matching appropriate pattern markings, such as center front or center back.
On horizontal button holes, insert a pin into the fabric 3mm from the end of the button hole nearest the edge of the garment. On vertical button holes, insert a pin into the fabric 3mm from the top of the button hole.
Carefully lift the button holes over the pins. Insert threaded needle at the point of the pin to sew on button. Mark and sew buttons one at a time, buttoning previous buttons for accurate marking.

Helpful Hints

	A thread shank must be made for all sew-thru buttons (unless the button is only decorative) to allow the button hole to fit smoothly underneath it and to prevent unnecessary strain on the thread. The length of the shank depends on the thickness of fabric.
	To form a thread shank, use a pin, toothpick, matchstick, machine needle, or large hand sewing needle (tapestry), depending on the desired length of the shank.
	When sewing on a shank button and a two-hole sew-thru button, the shank or the holes should be placed in the same direction as the button hole.
	Shank buttons do not always require extra play as the shank provides the necessary ease.
	Both flat and shank buttons should be securely fastened by wrapping the shank with thread before tacking and cutting off excess thread.
	A four-hole sew-thru button can be sewn on in any direction.
	The thread should be the same colour as the button, unless a special effect is desired.
	When sewing on a button, stitch through all layers of fabric unless the facing side will show, such as on a tailored jacket.
	When sewing on heavy-weight fabrics or tailored garments, a small, flat, stay button can be placed on the facing side to reinforce the area. Sew the button and the stay button at the same time, making the thread shank under the outside button.

Button Hole Tips

	To determine the size for a ball button or a high shank button, cut a strip of paper 6mm (1/4inch) wide, and wrap it around the widest part of the button. Pin the ends of paper together under the button and carefully remove the paper from around the button. Fold the paper in half, and this will be the proper length for your buttonhole.
	For flat buttons, the button hole length is usually the button length plus 3mm (1/8inch).
	Test proposed button hole prior to stitching hole on your garment. When making your practice button hole, don't forget to use all layers (garment fabric, facing, and interfacing).