Cutting Tools 101

Snip, Snip: Cutting Tools 101

Buy quality cutting tools and keep them at their best with periodic sharpening by a qualified professional.

Scissors & Shears

Scissors have both handles the same size; shears have one handle larger than the other. The best quality scissors and shears are hot-forged, high-grade steel, joined with an adjustable screw (not rivet) to ensure even pressure along the length of the blade.

Sharp shears make clean cuts and well-defined notches. More important, they do not damage fabric. Dull shears slow the cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing shears should not be used for other household tasks such as cutting paper or twine.

Scissors and shears last longer if you occasionally put a drop of oil on the screw assembly, wipe them clean with a soft dry cloth after use, and store them in a box or pouch.

Bent-handled dressmaker's shears are best for pattern cutting because the angle of the lower blade lets fabric lie flat on the cutting surface. Blade length of 7" or 8" (18 or 20.5cm) are most popular but lengths up to 12" (30.5cm) are available. Select a blade length appropriate to the size of your hand -- shorter for small hands, longer for large hands. Left-handed models are also available.

If you sew a great deal, invest in a pair of all-steel, chrome-plated shears (1a) for heavy-duty cutting. The lighter models (1b) are fine for less-frequent sewing or lightweight fabrics. For synthetic fabrics and slippery knits, a serrated edge shear (1c) gives maximum cutting control.

Pinking Shears

Pinking shears or scalloping shears cut a zigzag or scalloped edge instead of a straight one. Used to finish seams and raw edges of many types of fabric, they cut a ravel-resistant edge.

Thread Clippers & Embroidery Scissors

Sewing scissors (2a) have one pointed and one rounded tip for trimming and clipping seams and facings. The 6"(15cm) blade is most practical.

Embroidery scissors (2b) have a 4" or 5" (10 or 12.5cm) finely-tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in hand work and precision cutting.

Thread clippers (5) with spring-action blades is more convenient than shears and safer than a seam ripper.

Seam Rippers

Seam rippers quickly rip seams, opens button holes and removes stitches. Use carefully to avoid piercing fabric.

Rotary Cutters

Rotary cutters are an adaptation of the giant rotary cutters used in the garment industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. Use the rotary cutter with a special plastic mat available in different sizes. The mat protects both the cutting surface and the blade. A special locking mechanism retracts the blade for safety. The rotary cutter is especially useful for cutting leather, slippery fabrics, or several layers of fabric.

Cutting Tips

	Arrange your cutting table so you can move around it to get at the pattern from all angles. If your cutting surface is not this accessible, cut groups of pattern pieces apart from the rest of the fabric so you can turn these smaller pieces around.
	Accuracy is important, since a mistake in cutting cannot always be corrected. Before cutting, double check placement of pattern pieces and alterations. Before cutting plaids, one-way designs or directional fabrics, make sure the fabric is folded and laid out correctly. Basting tape may be helpful to keep fabric from shifting. Heavy or bulky fabric can be cut more accurately one layer at a time. Slippery fabric is easier to cut if you cover the table with a sheet, blanket or other non-slip material.
	Take long, firm strokes, cutting directly on the dark cutting line. Use shorter strokes for curved areas.
	Keep one hand on the pattern near the cutting line to prevent the pattern from shifting and to provide better control.
	Notches can be cut outward from the notch markings or with short snips into the seam allowance. Be careful not to snip beyond the seamline.
	Use snips to mark the foldlines and stitching lines of darts and pleats, and the center front and center back lines at the top and bottom. Mark the top of the sleeve cap above the large dot on the pattern with a snip. On bulky or loosely-woven fabric where snips cannot be easily seen, cut pattern notches out into the margin. Cut double or triple notches as one unit, not separately.
	After you finish cutting, save scraps to test stitching or pressing techniques, make trial buttonholes or cover buttons.
	For accurate marking and easy identification, leave each pattern piece pinned in place until you are ready to sew that piece.