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In's and Out's of Interfacing
Interfacing Options
Selecting the Right
Interfacing
Pre-shrinking Interfacing
Layout, Marking, & Cutting
Specialty Interfacings
For directions on applying Sew-in and Fusible
Interfacings, click here:
Applying Interfacing
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| Interfacing is essentially an extra layer of fabric that provides shape
and support in detail areas. And is commonly used in collars, cuffs,
lapels, necklines, pockets, waistbands, buttonholes, facings and opening
edges. Interfacing acts to keep these areas of your garment crisp through
repeated washings and wearings.
You pattern will tell you if you need interfacing and how much.
It will also tell you how to lay out your interfacing. You can use
more than one type of interfacing on a garment, choose the type according
to where it is going to be used and according to the desired effect.
Interfacing is usually applied to the wrong side of what will be the
outermost layer of fabric. |
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Interfacing Options:
Sew-In or Fusible, Woven or Non-woven
 
Whether you use sew-in interfacing or fusible interfacing is largely up
to you. Sew-in interfacings are stitched by hand or machine to your
garment, while fusible interfacing have a resin coating on the back that
fuses to the fabric when steam, heat, and pressure are applied.
Fusible interfacing is quick and easy use and gives a crisper look
after fusing. Also, fusible interfacings are great for stabilizing small
areas such as buttonholes, slashes, and plackets.
It is an excellent choice for interfacing fabrics that fray because
they "set" the yarns. Fusible interfacing should NOT be used on the
following fabrics metallics, beaded, sequined or re-embroidered fabrics,
rayon and acetate velvets, most brocades, fake furs, leather, vinyl and
openwork fabrics, such as lace and mesh. Also, textured fabrics such as
seersucker cannot be fused because the texture would be lost.
Some fabrics cannot withstand the heat fusing requires, so ALWAYS test
on a scrap first. When using fusible interfacing, follow
manufacturer's fusing directions carefully. In addition, even if the
directions do not suggest it, take the time to go through the entire
fusing process twice, first on the wrong side, then on the right side of
the garment section. This will ensure a good bond between the fabric
and the interfacing.
 
Woven interfacings are made of synthetic, cotton or a blend of fibers
and are available in a variety of weights and crispnesses from lightweight
polyester to heavyweight canvas. Non-woven interfacing are made of
synthetic fibers bonded together in weights from sheer to heavy.
Knitted interfacing also exists, and are tricot knit, tri-dimensional,
weft insertion, or warp insertion construction, providing flexibility for
lightweight knits and wovens.
Another interfacing option is to use other fabrics such as organza,
cotton batiste, and lightweight underlining fabrics for interfacing your
garments. These interfacing fabrics are useful for sheer to
lightweight fabrics. Alternately, for sheer fabrics a piece of self-fabric
can act as interfacing. These interfacing fabrics would be
applied with the sew-in method (see below). Top
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Selecting the Right Interfacing
Check out Simplicity's Interfacing
Chart.
When choosing interfacing take into consideration the weight of the
fashion fabric, the area in which it will be used, and the amount of
shaping or stiffness desired, as well as the type of care the fabric will
receive. The interfacing should NOT be heavier in weight than your garment
fabric, although it can be crisper. Ideally, the interfacing will be
slightly lighter in weight than your fashion fabric.
To determine whether or not an interfacing is compatible with your
fashion fabric, drape it and your fabric into a shape that resembles how
they will be used, such as a cuff or hem edge, and check for the crispness
and shaping you desire.
TIP: Don't buy exactly the amount of interfacing the
pattern calls for, but buy several metres. That way you can
experiment with it on other fabrics. To keep you stash of
interfacing neat, store the left overs in re-sealable plastic
bags. If it's a fusible interfacing, be sure to keep a copy of the
fusing directions with the interfacing.
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Pre-shrinking Interfacing
Don't forget to pre-shrink your interfacing! Generally, you would
pre-shrink your interfacing in the same manner as your outer
fabric.
For washable wovens, wefts, and tricot knits, fold the interfacing
loosely and immerse in a tub of hot water. Let sit until the water
cools to room temperature (approximately 15 to 20 minutes). After
rolling in a towel to remove excess moisture, let air dry.
When you are ready to use the interfacing, either type,
"steam shrink" as you would non-woven and dry clean only
interfacings. With resin side down over the wrong side of garment
piece (collar, cuff, etc.), hold the iron about 2.5cm to 5cm above the
pieces and steam for 5 to 7 seconds. Do not place the iron on the
fabric. Smooth out the pieces and fuse as usual. Top
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Layout, Marking, & Cutting
Woven and knitted interfacings have lengthwise, crosswise, and bias
grains. And should be cut out so that the pieces are on-grain as
indicated in your pattern layout. Woven interfacing can be cut on
the bias for softer shaping in rolled collars and hems.
Transfer the pattern markings to the interfacing rather than the fabric
as it will be covered by the interfacing.
To minimize bulk in both sew-in and fusible interfacing, trim the
outside corners of the interfacing diagonally, just inside the point were
the seam lines meet. Trim sew-in interfacing after it has been
basted to your fashion fabric.
For fusible interfacing you may wish to trim off 1.3cm of the seam
allowances prior to fusing to reduce bulk. Since the interfacing
does not add too much bulk, you can omit this step. It is easier to
position the interfacing with the seam allowances still on. On
heavier fabrics where bulk will be a problem, it is recommended that you
trim off the seam allowance.
 TIP: If the interfacing only partly covers a section of a
pattern piece, such as a jacket front or back, avoid a hard line showing
on the right side by trimming the interfacing with pinking sheers.
Pattern pieces can be laid in any direction for stable or
"all-bias" non-wovens; however, for those that have crosswise
stretch and lengthwise stability, the pattern pieces must be laid out as
for woven fabrics. We recommend checking the manufacturer's
directions when working with non-woven interfacing to determine the
appropriate layout for the interfacing.
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Specialty Interfacings & Fusing Agents
 Specialty interfacings have been developed for detail areas such as
waistbands, collars, cuffs, and plackets. These interfacings come
precut to the most common widths. Waistband interfacing is even perforated
to indicate seamlines and foldlines. Specialty interfacing make this
detail work that much quicker.
Fusible web bonds two layers of fabric together, making it possible to
bond a sew-in interfacing to the fashion fabric. Fusible web can
also be used to put up hems, hold appliqués in place and secure patches
before stitching.
Fusible web can be used on hems, cuffs, pocket flaps,
and belts to add body simply by fusing the layers of fabric together.
However, unlike interfacing, fusing agents cannot be used to stabilize an
area to prevent stretching; they are used to hold fabric pieces in place.
Check out Simplicity's Interfacing
Chart.
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