Button . . . Button . . .
Who's Got the Button?

Selecting Buttons

Types of Buttons

Sew-thru buttons are usually flat with two or four holes. When they are merely decorative, they can be sewn so they lie directly against the garment.  On all other applications, sew-through buttons need a thread shank.  A shank raises the button from the garment surface, allowing space for the layers of fabric to fit smoothly when it is buttoned.

Shank buttons have a solid top and a built-in shank.  Shank buttons are available in three types, self-shank, wire shank, and tunnel shank.  Choose shank buttons for heavier fabrics, as well as when using button loops or thread loops.

Fabric covered buttons are a wonderful option if you have difficulty finding a button to match your fabric.  

Regardless of  which type of button you are working with, all buttons should be sewn on with doubled thread through two thicknesses of fabric.  Heavier fabrics require a heavier, stronger thread such as Gutermann twist, Coats Koban-Extra Strong Thread, or Coats Koban Topstitching Thread.

Button Sizes

Buttons are sized by "line," which refers to the diameter, or simply by the diameter measurement.  One line = 0.25 inches =0.635cm.  The commonly used buttons range in size from line 18 or 1cm to line 40 or 2.5cm although smaller or lager buttons are available.  See the chart above for all the common button sizes and the measurements in both lines and millimeters.

Choosing Buttons

Buttons serve as a decoration and/or fastener, so when selecting buttons to compliment your garment or home décor project, keep the following in mind:

Buttons can be chosen to harmonize with a print, or to match or contrast a solid coloured fabric. You need to decide if you want the buttons to stand out or blend in with your project.

Fabric and button texture should be considered.  Choose a button that will not catch on the fabric.

The overall style you wish to create can be enhanced by buttons.  Select small, delicate buttons for feminine garments; clean classic styles for tailored clothes; novelty buttons for children's clothes. Jewelled or pearled buttons would be lovely on an elegant dress. Leather buttons are suitable for corduroy while rhinestone buttons are appropriate for velvet.

The type of closure and the purpose of the button, whether decoration or fastener, should be considered. With button loops, a shank button should be used.  With button holes, either a sew-thru or shank button can be used.  A flat button is more comfortable in some areas of a garment, such as inside a waistband or down the back of a dress.

Consider the size of the button in relationship to the number of buttons on the garment and current fashion.  Generally, a smaller button size is appropriate when there are many buttons on the garment.  Also, consider the person who will be wearing the garment.  A handicap person and a young child find a large button easier to grasp. Remember, the larger the button, the fewer you need.  Proportion is key when choosing button sizes.

Match lightweight buttons to lightweight fabrics. Heavy buttons will pull and distort lightweight fabrics.  Heavyweight fabrics need buttons that are bigger or look weightier. 

Some buttons cannot be laundered while others cannot be dry cleaned. Be sure to choose a button that is compatible with your fabric.

The back of the pattern envelope tells you how many and what size buttons to purchase.  Try not to go more than 3mm smaller or larger than the pattern specifies. Buttons that are too small or too large may not be in proper proportion to the edge of the garment.

TIP: When shopping for buttons, carry a swatch of your fabric with you.  If the buttons are on a card, cut a small slit in the fabric so the button can be slipped through the fabric, giving a better idea of how it will look.

Click on over to our Sew Much More page, Sewing With Buttons, for tips on applying sew-thru and shank buttons, marking placement of buttons, and various other helpful hints for sewing with buttons.