Selecting Thread

Tying It All Together: All You Need to Know About Thread

Tips for Selecting Thread

Select thread that is the same colour or shade darker than your fabric. For plaid, print or tweed match the thread to the dominant colour in the fabric.

It is always best to match the fiber of your thread to that of the fabric you are working with. This will not only give your project a uniform appearance, the thread will perform the same way as the fabric. For instance, a knit fabric is best sewn with a polyester or nylon thread as that thread will stretch a bit, giving the seams some elasticity. If you are sewing a cotton knit, a cotton-wrapped polyester thread is the best as you will have the look of cotton and the resilience of the polyester.

Another important tip is to pick the type of thread that matches the job. For example, use a cotton thread on a natural fabric, nylon thread for indoor and outdoor home decor, and specialty serger thread when sewing on an overlock machine.

When purchasing thread, go for quality as well as colour match. Choose thread made from long, continuous fibers and examine the thread for "fuzzies." If the thread is fuzzy, this indicates it is made of short fibers, resulting in weaker thread.

A poor quality thread causes sewing machine problems such as lint buildup on the machine, poor stitch formation and frequent breakage. It also causes tangles and knotting during hand sewing.

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Thread Types For Conventional Sewing Machines & Hand Sewing

All-purpose Polyester Thread is 100% polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester and is suitable for most of your needs. It provides strength and elasticity for sewing on fabrics made of synthetic, natural, or blended fibers. All-purpose polyester thread is great for knit, stretch, and permanent-press fabrics because of its stretch and recovery and its non-shrinkage.

All-purpose polyester thread is available in different weights for specific uses: extra fine for lightweight fabrics; all-purpose for general sewing; topstitching and buttonhole twist for decorative stitching and hand-worked buttonholes; button and carpet thread for hand sewing buttons and extra strength; and machine and hand quilting thread.

Upholstery Thread, in 100% nylon or polyester, is an extra-strong thread for sewing on heavyweight fabrics. Because it is treated to resist chemicals, rot, and mildew, it's an excellent choice for outdoor items.

Mercerized Cotton Thread is strong and lustrous, without any stretch or give, for use on woven natural fiber fabrics. The cotton fibers have been mercerized for added strength, luster, affinity for dye, and colour fastness. This thread is suitable for machine quilting on cotton fabrics.

Button, Carpet, and Craft Threads are strong, heavy, cotton-covered polyester threads designed specifically for hand sewing. Use them for tasks such as attaching buttons to cushions, pillows and upholstered furniture, or for assembling a braided rug by hand.

Silk Thread is the perfect choice for hand basting, securing hems, delicate hand tacking or stitching on the inside of a garment. It is ideal for basting because it does not leave a permanent mark or impression on the fabric when pressed. It is easy to remove after topstitching over it.

Because of silk's unique characteristics, it takes on the colour of the fabric that it's stitched on, so that an exact colour match is not necessary. It has luster, shine and colour range difficult to find in other threads.

Silk thread, with it smooth and beautiful surface, does not tangle as much as other threads. Silk thread is excellent for sewing silk and woolen fabrics and can be used in your conventional machine.

Since it is expensive and may not be readily available, save your silk thread and used it where it has the greatest value--for rolled hems. Because silk is very resilient and very lustrous, it will create a tighter, richer-looking edge.

Nylon Thread is for use on upholstery and home decorating. This heavy-duty machine or hand sewing thread can be used for both indoor and outdoor applications as it is rot-proof and abrasion resistant.

Monofilament nylon thread is made from one continuous filament of 100% transparent nylon or polyester and available in clear and smoke. This monofilament thread is often used for machine quilting, appliqué, crafts, and home decorating as it is strong with little stretch. It is excellent for overlock stitching.

Elastic Thread comes in black, white, and some basic colours, have been a great innovation in home sewing and crafting. These thread are great for stitching any area that you want elasticized. For example, instead of wrestling with a casing and a bulkier elastic, it is possible to stitch a few lines with this thread in your sewing machine to create a softer, thinner waist treatment.

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Specialized Serger Threads

Because the overlock sews fast--from 1200 to 1800 stitches per minute--the serger thread needs to be strong enough to withstand the speed, yet fine enough to create a soft, supple seam finish.

Serger thread tends to be in more basic colours, so use the matching conventional thread in the needles and use serger thread in the loopers. The serger thread should be in a colour that "blends" with your fashion fabric. For example, black or grey for darker fabrics and cream or white for lighter fabrics.

For a different look, some beautiful results can be achieved by using decorative threads, such as rayon or metallic thread in the loopers.

Cotton-wrapped or 100% Polyester Serger Thread is similar to, but finer than, conventional sewing threads. They're available on 1000m or larger cones.

Nylon Serger Thread is very strong and is recommended for knitted swimwear, lingerie and active sportswear, including leotards or other clothing made with elasticized fabric. It also works well for rolled hems when threaded through the upper looper.

100% Cotton Serger Thread isn't quite as strong as the other threads. Use it only on woven fabrics or use it in the loopers, with polyester or nylon thread in the needles.

Wooly Nylon Thread is texturized overlock thread that is both soft and strong. In home decor sewing it is used primarily for serger rolled hems. Prize attributes are its ability to stretch and recover, its beautiful sheen and the resulting smooth, filled-in appearance. This thread comes in either a "kinked" or a smooth "flossy" configuration.

As with nylon serger thread, it is recommended for knitted swimwear, lingerie, leotards or elasticized fabrics. Because these garments have seams that come in direct contact with the body, you may prefer woolly nylon over 100% nylon serger thread because it is softer and it lays flatter than many other threads.

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Machine Stitching Tips

	The fabric, needle, machine and thread must all work together when machine sewing. For best results, remember these tips and follow the recommendations in the chart below.
	Keep your machine clean and oiled. Wind the bobbin slowly and evenly. Change the needle every 2-3 garments. Sew at a steady, even pace. Place the notched end of the spool down on a machine with an upright spindle. Place the notched end toward the handwheel on a horizontal spindle.

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Needle & Thread Chart

Fabric Weight & Type	Thread	Hand Needles	Machine Needles
Very Light: chiffon, georgette, organza, tulle, etc.	100% Cotton (extra fine) Cotton-wrapped polyester (extra fine) Silk	9, 10, 11, 12 Sharps, Betweens, Millner's, Beading	Universal 60/8 or 65/9
Light: cotton/polyester blend batiste, linen, lace, etc.	100% Cotton (extra fine) Cotton-wrapped polyester (extra fine) Silk	9, 10 Sharps, Betweens Millner's Beading	Universal 65/9 or 70/10 Ballpoint or stretch 70/10 or 75/11
Medium Light: Challis, lycra® knit, microfiber, polyester silky, seersucker, taffeta, etc.	Cotton-wrapped polyester 100% Polyester Silk	6, 7, 8 Sharps, Betweens Millner's Embroidery	Universal 70/10 or 80/12 Ballpoint or stretch 75/11
Medium Heavy: brocade, corduroy, denim, sequinned fabric, velvet, wool and wool blends, etc.	Cotton-wrapped polyester 100% Polyester Silk	5, 6 Sharps, Betweens Millner's Embroidery Glover's	Universal 80/12 or 90/14 Jeans/ Denim 90/14 Ballpoint or stretch 80/12 or 90/14 Leather 90/14
Heavy: boiled wool, canvas, faux fur, leather, etc.	Cotton-wrapped polyester (Button & Carpet) 100% Polyester (extra strong) Silk 100% Nylon (Upholstery & Home Dec)	4,5 Sharps, Betweens Millner's Embroidery Darner's Glover's Sailmaker's	Universal 90/14 or 100/16 Jeans/ Denim 90/14 or 100/16
Very Heavy: Canvas, duck, upholstery fabrics	Cotton-wrapped polyester (Button & Carpet) 100% Polyester (extra strong) 100% Nylon (Upholstery & Home Dec)	1, 2, 3 Sharps, Betweens Millner's Embroidery Darner's Glover's Sailmaker's	Universal 100/16, 110/18, or 120/19 Jeans/ Denim 100/16 or 110/18 Leather 100/16 or 110/18

Hand Stitching Tips

	Use a thread no longer than 20". Knots, tangles and abrasion are more likely to occur with a longer thread. Sew loosely with smooth motions.
	If the thread should twist because of the stitch you are using, let the needle hang free and untwist every few stitches.

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Special Uses

Uses	Thread	Needles
Basting	100% Cotton basting Silk	HAND: Millner's, Darner's, Sharps MACHINE: Universal or Ballpoint 70/10 or 80/12
Beading	Silk 100% Nylon monofilament	HAND: Beading MACHINE: Universal 60/8
Bobbin Filler for embroidery	100% Nylon 100% Polyester	N/A
Buttonholes	Silk Cotton-wrapped polyester (Topstitching & Buttonhole Twist) 100% Long Staple Polyester	HAND: Embroidery 6, 7 MACHINE: Topstitching 80/12, 90/14, or 100/16
Buttons and Fasteners on heavier fabrics	Silk Cotton-wrapped polyester (Topstitching & Buttonhole Twist) 100% Long Staple Polyester	HAND: Embroidery 6, 7 MACHINE: Universal 90/14 or 100/16
Embroidery and other Decorative Stitching	Silk Rayon Embroidery 40%Wool/60%Acrylic Acrylic Embroidery 100% Polyester Filament Metallic 100% Cotton BOBBINWORK: Rayon Cord Metallic Cord, Braid Metallic, yarn-like	HAND: Sharps, Embroidery 9, 10 MACHINE: Embroidery, Metafil or Metalica 70/10, 80/12, or 90/14
Quilting	HAND: 100% Cotton 100% Cotton- wrapped polyester (waxed) MACHINE: 100% Glazed Cotton 100% Mercerized Cotton Cotton-wrapped Polyester	HAND: Betweens 7 MACHINE: Universal or Quilting 80/12 or 90/14
Topstitching	Silk Cotton-wrapped Polyester (Topstitching & Buttonhole Twist) 100% Long Staple Polyester	HAND: Sharps, Betweens, Millner's, Embroidery appropriate to fabric weight MACHINE: Topstitching 80/12, 90/14, 100/16

Decorative Thread Sewing Tips

	Rayon thread is designed for decorative thread only. For general sewing needs, use an all-purpose thread.
	Be sure bobbin is full.
	Use a new size 11 or 14 needle in your sewing machine. A damaged needle can cause skipped stitches and thread breakage.
	Prewash fabric or garment to be stitched.
	When possible, do decorative stitching before constructing project.
	If required, apply interfacing in the area to be stitched, before stitching.
	When doing programmed stitching, loosen the upper tension so that the upper thread is pulled slightly to the underside and no bobbin thread can be seen on top of the fabric.
	Make a test sample on the fabric you will be sewing on and adjust the tension, stitch length and width if necessary.
	To prevent puckering, use a stabilizer ( a non-woven tear away backing) underneath the stitching area.
	Rayon Thread can be slippery due to its silk-like nature. To control this, a thread net can be used over the spool when using a machine with horizontal spool pin. When using a vertical or upright spool pin, a circle of felt (slightly larger than the bottom of the spool) placed under the spool, will help prevent the thread from catching underneath.

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Types of Decorative Thread

Metallic Thread adds sparkle to your sewing and craft projects. Ideal for machine quilting, decorative stitching and satin stitching on appliqués. Suitable for conventional or overlock machine sewing, hand embroidery and cross stitch. Use a 14 or 16 needle. Coats Metallic® is available in solid and variegated colours.

Coats Rayon Thread, 40 wt, is silk-like in appearance for decorative stitching, and appliqué monograms. Available in solid and variegated colours. Size 40, 100% Rayon is strong but fine, making it suitable for free-hand machine embroidery. Try Coats Rayon Thread for overlock sewing for flatlock, rolled hem, and edge finish sewing.

Coats Rayon Colour Twist, 35 wt, is used for decorative stitching, free-motion embroidery or programmed motifs. It is a unique thread made up of two piles of different colours. An unusual colour pattern appears on the spool and the stitching in appearance is stunning. Colour Twist Rayon® is available in monochromatic colours, contrasting colours, and distinctive variegates. Monochromatic Colour Twist is ideal for subtle shading in floral or animal designs while contrasting colour is excellent for adding dimension to decorative stitching and programmed stitching. Colour Twist variegates offer a blended rather than a colour-blocked look. Try Coats Rayon Colour Twist Thread for overlock sewing flatlock, rolled hem, and edge finish sewing.

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Causes of Thread Breaks and Frays

Conventional Sewing Machine

Possible Cause	Solution
Machine threaded incorrectly.	Check the diagram in machine manual.
Machine tension. too tight.	Loosen top tension.
Needle thread in the wrong direction.	Follow machine thread guide.
Needle in poor condition.	Check to see that needle is inserted correctly. Should be smooth, not blunt or bent. Change it if necessary.
Bobbin inserted incorrectly.	Refer to machine manual.
Machine throat place in poor condition.	Should be smooth around needle hole. If nicked, file with sandpaper.
Abrasive fabric finish.	Launder.

Serger Sewing Machine

Possible Cause	Solution
Incorrect threading.	Rethread machine from right to left (i.e., lower looper, upper looper, right needle, left needle). Check the manual - you may need to loosen tension to "0" before rethreading.
Incorrect threading sequence.	If looper thread is breaking, remove the thread(s) from the eye of the needle(s) before rethreading the loopers.
Thread pole isn't completely extended.	Check and correct.
Tension is too tight.	Reduce the tension slightly on the looper or needle thread that is breaking.
Thread is caught on spool or wrapped around spool pin.	Check and correct.
Needle is dull, bent, or burred.	Change the needle. You'll need a new one every 60-100 hours of sewing time.
Thread is old, brittle, or coarse.	Try a different thread.

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