Snappy Snaps

Sew-on Snaps, Gripper-type Snaps
& Snap Tape

The most common type of snap is the regular sew-on snap. For special uses, gripper-type snaps and snap tape are also available.

Sew-on Snaps consist of two parts--a ball-half and a socket-half. They are not visible from the right side of the garment and are suitable for areas where there is little strain. Snaps are usually used where one garment edge laps over another, such as at a waistline of a dress. However, they can be sewn on as extended snaps and used where tow edges meet, such as at the neckline above a centered zipper application.

Sew-on snaps are available in sizes 4/0 (000) to 4. The size selected depends on the location of the snap and the weight of the fabric.

Gripper-type Snaps consist of four parts--a socket piece, a ball piece, and two pieces with prongs. They are used where edges overlap, have more holding-power than a sew-on snap, and show on the right side of the garment. Gripper-type snaps are suitable as a replacement for buttons and buttonholes on sportswear and are often used on shirts, children's garments, and jackets.

Gripper-type snaps are sized by "line" and are commonly available in line 15 (approximately 9mm) to line 19 (approximately 1.2cm). A special plier tool or a hammer is used to apply them. It is easiest to apply gripper-type snaps on a very hard surface that does not have any give to it.

Snap Tape consists of snaps attached to pieces of tape. It is used where edges overlap and is particularly suitable for the inside seam of an infant's or toddlers pants of for home decor items.

Marking Placement of Snaps

Sew-on or Gripper-type Snap on a Lapped Edge

First, attach the ball-half of the snap to the wrong side of the overlap section, at least 6mm from the edge so that it does not show on the right side. Pin the garment area closed. Mark the placement of the socket-half of on the underlap using one of the following techniques:

	If there is a hole in the center of the ball, insert a needle and thread (no knot) from the right side of the garment, through the hole in the ball, and into the underlap. Slip the ball-half of the snap off the thread. Make a knot in the thread; pull to secure. Center the socket over the knot.
	If there is no hole in the center of the ball, rub tailor's chalk on it and press it firmly on the underlap. Center the socket over the mark.

Extended Snap

An extended snap is not applied in the same way as a regular sew-on snap; however, the same procedure can be used to mark its placement. First, attach the ball-half of the snap to the wrong side of one section. Position the two edges so they meet and are even at the top. Mark the position of the socket-half on the wrong side of the other section using the same technique as above.

Hanging Snaps: To fasten a neckline with snaps above a zipper, sew the socket-half in position on the inside of the neckline. Attach the ball section on the opposite side by forming a thread loop using a blanket stitch.

Covered Snaps: For inconspicuous snaps, cover them with underlining or lining fabric. Cut two fabric circles out about twice the diameter of the snap. Take a running stitch around the edge of each circle. Place a snap section face down on each. Work ball of snap through center of fabric circle, snapping both sections several times to spread fabric apart. Draw up threads and fasten each section securely.

Hints for Attaching Snaps

	Sew-on snaps can be attached using the button hole stitch or the whipstitch. The buttonhole stitch takes longer but is more secure. It is recommended for snaps that are used often and receive more strain. The whipstitch is quicker and easier, but it is also weaker.
	When stitching a snap to the overlap, stitch only through the facing and interfacing; do not stitch through to the right side of the garment. When stitching a snap to the underlap, stitch through all layers.
	When attaching an extended snap, stitch through only one hole of the ball-half of the snap. Stitch through all the holes of the socket-half.
	When attaching snap tape, use a zipper foot on the sewing machine and stitch around all edges of the tape.
	When attaching gripper-type snaps, follow the package instructions carefully. The fabric will probably be damaged if the snap is removed.
	Also, when attaching gripper-type snaps, be sure you are working on a firm surface with little give, such as a cement floor.

Attaching Snaps

Use a single strand of thread for sewing snaps. Knot the end. Take a small stitch on the right side. Take a second stitch in the same place.

Place a snap over stitch. Insert needle into fabric and one hole of snap.
To make the buttonhole stitch, wrap thread around the needle in a clockwise direction.
Pull needle and thread through. Take 3 to 5 stitches in the hole.
To stitch next hole, insert needle into fabric, carry it between fabric layers, and bring it out near the next hole. Take 3 to 5 stitches in hole.
Continue until stitches are taken in all holes. Secure thread by making a small knot in fabric.

Attaching Snap Tape

To apply snap tape, preshrink tape first in cool water. Then, using a zipper foot, edgestitch the tape in place, turning the raw ends under. Sew the ball strip to the underlap and the socket strip to the overlap.