Basics for Sewing
Window Coverings

Tips for Choosing Fabric

Fabrics for window coverings can be solid or multicoloured, plain or patterned, textured or smooth, transparent or opaque.  They an match or coordinate with upholstered pieces or existing wallpaper.

When selecting fabric, colour and trim of your window treatment, pay particular attention to how your choices coordinate with three elements in the room: the wall treatment, the floor covering, and the largest piece of upholstered furniture.

Solids that blend in with the wall treatment are restful to the eye; solids that contrast add a direct design accent.  If in doubt, tone down your colour choice.  You can always brighten it up by adding trim, tassels, fringe, ribbon, lace, braids, borders, or interesting tiebacks.  Adding trim at a later stage is easier and more economical than replacing a finished window treatment because the fabric or colour is not suitable.

Patterns and prints can be used to draw the eye away from any unappealing design features in the room, or they can be used to unify a collection of solids.

To give your decor a unified look, consider repeating the print somewhere else in the room.  For dramatic effect, repeat it in another large area, such as wall coverings, slipcovers, or bed linens.  For a more subtle effect, use leftover fabric to trim one of these large areas or for small accent pieces, such as throw pillows.

If the fabric has a motif that must be matched and you have used a companion wall covering, be sure to plan the window treatment so that the motif matches in an unbroken repeat around the room.

Fabrics, like people, have personalities.  Some are very formal, while others impart a more casual air.  Think about the impression you want the room to convey, then choose a fabric for your window treatment that is compatible with its message. 

Buy the best-quality fabric that your budget will allow.  Your window treatment will last longer and look better.

Don't skip on fullness.  An expensive fabric will loose its richness if the treatment is not full enough.  An inexpensive fabric will look lusher if the fullness is generous or if the curtains or drapes are lined.

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Different Styles of Window Treatments

Curtains & Draperies

Curtains versus Draperies Curtains are installed on stationary rods and generally have gathered, smocked, or ruffled headings.  Draperies are more tailored and have pleated, smocked, or gathered headings.  They are attached to traversing rods with special pin hooks.  They also can be installed on flat curtain rods by hooking the pins over the rod.  This type of window treatment is constructed like a drape but it functions as a stationary curtain.

Bishop Sleeves are an elegant window treatment that is simply a rod pocket curtain with extra length allowed for blousing.  The bishop sleeve look is achieved with tiebacks pulling the curtain tight to the window frame.  Any number of poufs may be used.  Arrange and tie the poufs at a position that is in proportion to the window length and width.   As well, additional fabric may be added to create soft drapery folds on the floor, called a "puddle".

Cafe Curtains are made of a piece of fabric stretched between two thin rods: one at the top and one at the bottom.  Typically pleated, cafe curtains can be mounted to either the inside or outside of a window frame.  Because cafe curtains attach to the frame at both the top and bottom, they are an excellent choice for adding privacy to a French door.  Cafe Curtains are also excellent for dressing up a decorative screen. A scalloped heading is a popular top treatment for café curtains that features semicircular spaces between the curtain rings.

Cottage Curtains are a combination of café curtains and tieback curtains.  The café curtains cover the lower part of the window with the tieback curtains over them.

Draw Draperies are any drapery treatment designed for use with a traverse rod, creating a window covering that can be drawn to open or close, either from both sides to the center (center draw) or from one side to the other (one-way draw).

Grommet-top Curtains are similar to tab-top curtains, except that they are hung from eyelets sewn into the fabric at the top.  Grommet-top curtains can be hung either by threading a rod through the grommets (which can look quite contemporary), or by attaching decorative hooks to the grommets for a more traditional look.

Hand-Drawn Draperies are a drapery treatment that are pulled open or closed by hand or with a baton.

Hourglass Curtains take their name from their shape.  They are held taught between  sash rods at the top and bottom of the window glass, and then pulled in at the center to create the hourglass shape.  Use tension rods, instead of sash rods, for mounting inside a window frame.  Because these curtains are held tight to the glass, they are a practical treatment for doors.  They also work well on windows where there is not room for a return.  They allow sunlight to get in and, for extra airiness, are attractive in lace and sheer fabrics.

Overdraperies are the topmost drapery in a double or combination drapery treatment.

Pinch Pleated Draperies are a popular treatment for windows because draperies open to let light in, and close for privacy.  The pleats are spaced at intervals to control the fullness of the drapery.  The more fabric that is pleated into the drapery panels, the fuller the draperies become.

Pocket Rod Curtains are curtains with a pocket sewn at the top where a rod can be inserted.  Because they tend to look very crisp and tailored at the top, they're much more formal than other types of curtains.  Rod-pocket curtains are typically mounted outside the window frame.

Priscilla Curtains are a pair of extra-wide, ruffled tieback curtains hung on crisscross curtain rods so the panels crisscross in the center.  They are often used with an attached valance.

Tab-top Curtains are flat curtain panels that hang from a decorative rod by tabs (which can be of varying lengths).  Tab-top curtains tend to be more casual than other types of curtains and are often mounted outside the window frame.

Tie-top Curtains feature short lengths of fabric at the top that are used to attach the curtains to the curtain rod.  Because tie-tops are the most informal-looking of curtains, they work best with informal fabrics, especially sheers. 

Tent-flap Curtains require a minimal amount of fabric and provide a tailored, uncluttered look. Choose two fabrics that complement each other for the outer fabric and the lining.  The lining is just as important as the outer fabric.

Sash Curtains are any sheer material hung close to the window glass.  Usually hung from spring tension rods or sash rods mounted inside the window casing.

Shirred Curtains are any curtain gathered onto a curtain rod, but the term is frequently used for curtains gathered onto rods at both the top and the bottom edges.

Tiered Curtains are usually café curtains hung in two or more tiers with the top curtains slightly overlapping lower curtains.

Valances 

Valances are simply shorter curtains, draperies, or soft shades, usually about a foot long, that hang over the top edge of curtains.  Valances can be hung on their own or in pairs in a tall window where one set is hung at the top and one set in the middle.  They are also a simple way to dress up a set of tab-top curtains. 

If you want to hang a valance directly above a curtain or drape, look for double curtain rods and combination traverse and valance rods.  These rods are installed on one set of brackets and have the necessary clearance built in.  In a similar vein, triple rods are the easy way to hang valances, drapes, and undercurtains.

Austrian Valances are a shortened version of the elegant Austrian Shade, characterized by vertical rows of shirring, horizontal gathers, and soft scallops at the lower edge.  Sheer and soft fabrics work best for this treatment, which is often trimmed with fringe.  The valance is unlined to gather and drape beautifully.

Balloon Valances are pleated valances that appear to "puff" out like a balloon, and are generally used to dress up a plain curtain rod.

Cloud Valances are a short variation of the cloud shade, with gentle poufs or scallops across the bottom and a shirred heading at the top.  It can be shirred on a flat curtain rod or Continental rod, made with shirring tape and attached with hooks through the shirring tape to a curtain rod, or attached to a mounting board.

Festoons are decorative valances made of folded fabric that hangs in a graceful curve over the window.

Pouf Valances are variations of soft cloud or balloon shades, made by shirring fabric on two curtain rods.  The double pouf valance uses three curtain rods.  for deeper headings and taller windows, Continental rods may also be used for pouf valances.

Tapered Valances are often used over mini-blinds and pleated shades to soften the severe lines, or with shorter café curtains for a comfortable, casual look. They are usually lined when print fabrics are used, because you see the wrong side of the fabric as it cascades down the side of the window.  If the lower edge has a ruffled finish, however, it does not have to be lined because the fall of the ruffle hides the wrong side of the fabric. Lightweight or sheer fabrics are also good choices for a ruffled valance, and do not require lining.

Shades

Austrian Shades are fabric shades that rise and lower in soft scallops by means of a series of tapes that are threaded through a series of rings.

Balloon Shades are a variation of the Roman Shade.  It has inverted box pleats which give it a formal flatter look and it tends to bunch forward when pulled up.  It provides a soft gentle window covering that is easy to install. 

Reverse Roll-Up Shades are a practical, tailored shade covering the window frame and hanging from a rod inside a padded cornice.  The contrasting lining that rolls to the outside of the shade is fused top the shade fabric.

Roman Shades are mounted on a board attached to the top of the window.  A lattices strip inserted through a pocket at the lower edge of the shade provides the necessary weight.

Russian Shades are similar to Balloon Shades, but the Russian Shade has a shirred or rod pocket heading, which gives a softly gathered look to the shade as it operates up and down.

Swags

Swags are large pieces of fabric that are hung either above or on top of the curtains themselves. They are usually attached to a mounting board, although a more informal look is to drape a swag over a wooden or decorative pole, or pulled through a decorative sconce.  These valance treatments are draped into soft graceful folds that take on the shape of a half circle. Swags can be used singly to accent a small window or in multiples (usually an odd number) to become a dominant design theme.  All swags should be lined.

Jabots are window treatments that consist of a tapered width of fabric that can be self-lined or contrast lined.  It is pleated and used as a frame on each side of a row of Swags.  Jabots should be 1/3, 2/3  or the full length of the window frame.  Do not use regular drapery lining on jabots, it will show as pleats fold back.

Flags are double sided Jabots used in the center of a swag treatment or in corners when swags are installed in a bay window.  Flags are usually 5" (13cm) to 7" (18cm) longer than swags.  As for Jabots, do not use regular lining on Flags.

Cascades are soft unstructured Jabots that consist of fabric draped lengthwise in a zigzag fashion,  usually ending in a point.  Finished length and fabric requirements are the same as for Jabots.

Throw Swags are made up of fabric draped over a wood pole or café rod .  Other types are constructed in several sections, but look like one continuous piece.

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Curtain Rods & Other Pretty Things

There are adjustable tracks and rods that will accommodate any style curtain or drape or any weight fabric you desire. Curtain rods are the easiest to install and work with. 

Here are some tips for installing hardware for your window treatments:

Window Treatment Hardware

Brackets are metal pieces that are attached to the wall or casing to support a drapery, curtain rod, blind, or shade.

Café Rings are clip-on or sew-on rings used to hang café curtains.

Cafe Rods are decorative curtain rods, with or without rings, and available in many finishes, including wood, brass, enamel, and wrought iron.  

Center Supports are metal grips used to support traverse rod or vertical blind tracks from above.  It helps prevent the rod from sagging in the middle, but does not interfere with the operation of the rod or blinds.

Clear Plastic Rods for sheer and lace curtains do not show through and detract from the fabric.

Combination Rods are two or three rods on one pair of brackets, used to create layered window treatments.  Combination sets can include traverse only, both traverse and curtain rods, and several curtain rods.

Conventional Curtain Rods are narrow, flat metal rods used for outside mounts.  The rod should be completely hidden in the pocket casing.  

Continental Rods are wide, flat curtain rods that add depth and interest to rod pocket treatments.  Common widths are 2 ½" (6.3cm) and 4½" (11.5cm).

Cord-controlled Traverse Rods are available in both decorative and conventional styles: 

Corner Brackets convert rods to a continuous right angle for corner window installations.

Cornices are custom-built boxes without backs that cover the top of the window. They are designed to keep a curtain rod from showing and may be stained, painted, or upholstered to match a window treatment.  The lower edge of a cornice may be cut straight or cut into a decorative shape.  

Decorative Holdbacks are decorative hardware mounted to the side of the window to hold swags or to hold back drapery panels.  Available a variety of styles and sizes, you're sure to find ones that suite your décor.

Drapery Hooks are available in either pin-on or slip-on hardware and are used to hang draperies from rods.

End Brackets are two adjustable metal grips that hold a drapery rod or vertical track to the wall or ceiling and control the amount of projection.  Also, supporting brackets are used to install pleated shades.

Extender Curtain Rods are pieces of curtain rod that fit onto another rode to lengthen it.

Finials are decorative end-pieces of a decorative traverse or café curtain rod.

Lambrequins are decorative wood frames built around the top and sides of a window to create a larger, more impressive window treatment.  It is often padded and covered with fabric.

Master Carriers are the lead carriages of a traverse rod.  They contain two arms that overlap in the center, allowing the draperies to overlap slightly and close completely.

Multiple-Draw Rods allow each panel of a pair of draperies draw independently.

One-Way Draw Rods are traverse rods on which draperies pull from one side to the other.  The drapery panels stack on one side when open.

Ring and Pole Sets are decorative rods, generally wood, designed so that curtains or drapes can be hand drawn across the window.

Sash Rods are flat or round rods with shallow mounting brackets.  They are most often used on doors and other areas where a sheer or lightweight curtain is installed close to the glass.

Sconces allow you to create a beautiful swag drape in minutes by simply pulling fabrics through the openings of two or more sconces.  Another alternative is to insert a pole (up to 1 3/8" size diameter) through the sconces then drape fabric over the pole to create an attractive curtain.

Slides are the small runners installed in a traverse rod that holds a drapery pin or hook.

Spring Tension Rods are used to install curtains and valances inside the window frames.  They do not require any type of brackets or mounting screws.

Stack Back is the space required for draperies when they are completely open.

Swag Holders are heart-shaped holders that allow fabric to be secured in a pouf fashion. They provide support for loosely draped treatments such as a throw swag.

Tension Pulleys are pulley attachments through which the traverse cords move when the drapery is drawn.  It ensures one continuous, smooth operation.  It may be mounted on a baseboard, casing, or wall on one side or both sides of the window covering.

Tiebacks, Holdbacks and Scarfholders are decorative drapery hardware designed to hold draperies off to the sides of the window.  They are also used to hold scarves, and to create swag treatments.  Many styles, both plain and decorative, are available so they can be dramatic or inconspicuous.  They can repeat an existing design detail or bring an entirely new dimension to your curtains.  Hang the curtain first; then decide on the style and placement of the tiebacks. 

Trimmings for window coverings are usually decorative braid, fringe, tassels, cord, gimp, and other fabric trims used as an accent on curtains, draperies, or tiebacks.

Two-Way Draw Rods allow the draperies hung from them to pull closed from both sides to the center.  It is also called a center draw.

Unfinished Wood Pole Sets, plain or fluted, can be painted to match the curtain fabric for a custom touch.

Weights are made of lead or metal and used to help draperies and fabric vertical blinds hang properly.  

Measuring Up

Once you select a style, the next step is measuring your window.  Here is a diagram that shows all the measurements that you may need to take.  Be sure to take the measurements that are relevant for the style you have chosen.  For example, if you are planning to make a shade, you need the inside molding measurement, from side to side, and from top to sill.

Use a folding ruler or a metal tape for measuring; cloth tapes may stretch or sag.  Measure and record the measurements for all windows separately, even if they appear to be the same size.

In order to calculate your fabric meterage, you need to compare your window measurements with those given in the instructions for the design you wish to make.  Patterns often include formulas to help you calculate your meterage.  Read through the cutting instructions first; knowing how the fabric is cut is another key to figuring your meterage. 

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Special Measurement Considerations

Allow  1.3cm (½") clearance between the bottom of the drapery and the floor when measuring for floor-length draperies.  This amount allows for cleaning and vacuuming, and provides sufficient clearance for electrical chords. Also, if draperies sag or if the floors are uneven, draperies will not drag on the floor.

Allow 2.5cm (1") clearance for loosely woven fabrics.  This amount will provide an extra margin for them to stretch slightly without dragging on the floor.

Allow 1.3cm (½") clearance on sliding glass doors; more than this amount may let light gap at bottom.

Allow 10cm to 15cm (4" to 6") drapery clearance above baseboard heaters for safety.

Allow 6.5cm (2½") clearance if carpeting is not installed.  This amount provides approximately 5cm (2") for carpeting and padding, plus 1.3cm (½").

Underdraperies should be 2.5cm (1") shorter, 1.3cm (½") at top and bottom so they do not show under the outer draperies.

Use the highest window in the room as a standard for measuring if windows are at different heights.  Place all other draperies in the room at the same height from the floor.

Estimating Meterage

After deciding on the window treatment, install the appropriate hardware and then measure for curtains, draperies, shades, or top treatments. You will then need to determine the finished length and width of the treatment.  The finished length is measured from the top of the heading or casing to the bottom of the hem.  The finished width is the width of the rod plus returns, and overlap for draperies.  

To determine the cut length and width, add the amounts needed for hems, casings, seams, matching repeats, and fullness.  Print out and fill in a copy of the chart on our Estimating Meterage page. 

Pinched pleated draperies require special measurement consideration for determining length and width and estimating fabric, so we have included a separate page for these draperies.

Determine Cut Length

Measure from the top of the rod to the desired length.  To this length measurement, add the amount needed for lower hems, rod pockets, headings, and pattern repeat.

Lower hems: Add double the desired hem to finished length.  For mediumweight fabrics, use a 10cm (4") double hem on floor-length curtains or draperies; add 20.5cm (8") to the length.  For sheer and lightweight fabrics, a deeper double hem of 12.5cm to 15cm (5" to 6") may be used.  On short curtains or valances, use a 2.5cm to 7.5cm (1" to 3") double hem.

Rod pockets and headings:  For rod pockets with no heading, add an amount equal to the diameter of the rod plus 1.3cm (½") to turn under and 6mm to 2.5cm (¼" to 1") ease.  The amount of ease depends on the thickness of the fabric and the size of the rod.  Lightweight fabrics require less ease; rod pockets for large rods require more.  For rod pockets with headings, use the formula for a rod pocket, adding it to an amount twice the depth of the heading.

Pattern Repeat:  Prints must match across the width of the panels.  Measure the distance between the motifs, and add that amount to the cut length of each panel.

Determine Cut Width

To the finished width, add the amount needed for seams, side hems, and fullness.

Seams:  For multi-width panels, add 2.5cm (1") for each seam.  Panels that are not wider than the fabric do not require an extra amount for seams.

Side Hems:  Add 10cm (4") per panel for a 2.5cm (1") double-fold hem on each side of the panel.

Fullness:  Fabric weight determines fullness.  For laces and medium to heavyweight fabrics add 2 to 2½ times the finished width of the curtain.  For sheer and lightweight fabrics, add 2½ to 3 times the finished width.

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To Line or Not to Line

Adding a lining to either curtains or drapes is both a practical and aesthetic decision.

The most common lining fabric is white or off-white.  However, any plain fabric of similar weight, such as sheeting or unbleached muslin, can also be used.

Cutting Panels Without Pattern Repeat

Wherever possible, matching the pattern repeat has been avoided, as in most styles where the seams are not visible. 

1. Lay out as much of your fabric as will fit on the cutting table or any large flat surface.  Place a carpenter's square parallel to the selvedge and trim the raw edge straight.
2. At both sides, measure from the raw edge your required length, mark with tailor's pencil.  Cut along the mark.
3. Repeat step 2 for required number of panels.

Cutting Panels With Pattern Repeat

Some patterned fabrics have a pattern that repeats.  Be aware of this because it will help you create a window dressing with a professional look.  

If your window dressing requires multiple widths of fabric, you must note your pattern repeat when figuring your yardage and when cutting.

1. Lay out as much fabric as will fit on the cutting table or any large flat surface.  Rather than follow the grain of the fabric, locate a pattern that is repeated across the fabric. Cut along the design.
2. At both sides, measure from the raw edge your required length, mark with tailor's pencil and cut along in a straight line. 
3. Repeat step 2 for required number of panels.

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Joining Panels

1. With right sides together and beginning at the top, stitch 1.3cm (½") form the selvedge.  Repeat until all the panels are joined together to form one piece.
2. Trim off selvedges and serge raw edges together, or finish with a zigzag stitch.

Joining Panels Eliminating
Center Seams

This procedure is only necessary when using an even number of panels.

1. Split one pane in half vertically.
2. With right sides together and beginning at the top, at the selvedges join one half panel on the left side and one on the right side of the center panel.  This will eliminate a seam in the center of your valance.

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